Kaneg Motorcycle Accessories - Ph: 0414 712 419 Accessories, bike stands, tyre warmers, knee sliders and more

2006 MS2R1k

Discussion in 'My Bike' started by supamodel, Jan 11, 2008.

  1. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    Sweet, did the rear tyre look all fucked in the middle, or has Brett decided to set fire to my gixxer prior to dynoing the Monster? :D.
     
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  2. bailes23
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    bailes23 Member

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    haha... Brett only had good things to say about your gixxer!
    The tyre on the Monster looked like you had A LOT of fun at EC! I don't think it had been on the dyno yet though.
     
    #42
  3. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    Well, he turned that gixxer from dog to god, just a bit hard when the damned ignition module black box shits itself the night before heading to Sydney!

    and yeah, I had a blast at EC. I bought the Monster only to be a road bike and commute on it. It's a great road bike, nice and comfy and so easy to tour on (with ventura rack so it at least has some storage), but as I found out, with minimal suspension setup changes(1), it's a great track bike too.

    (1) These are changes I do for the road and for the track, and I figure I should actually put them into the thread. Raised the rear end by 15mm using the rear ride-height adjuster rod. Changed front preload to make it ride a little higher at the front, and added bags of rear preload to make it even higher at the back. Didn't work to a specific sag figure, just worked till it was balanced (it could possibly use stiffer springs). +2 clicks on rear shock adjuster (slightly stiffer rear rebound damping). -4 compression damping and +3 rebound damping on the front, it was a bit vague at the front and wanted to pop back at the front and just didn't have enough weight over the front. It's still un-ideal, the back isn't as good as the front, but it's more than rideable.
    I also don't make any suspension changes between running Road2s (for usual duties) and Pilot Pures (for the track). I'll try commuting on the Pures though now they have track cred with balls of rubber hanging off them.
     
    #43
  4. dmac666
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    dmac666 Member

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    Supa,

    That stuby holder tray thingy has to go. Short = cool.

    Dave (who has a very short bike)
     
    #44
  5. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    Sign up for another EC track day and it'll be gone before then :). The current LED taillight is an integrated one, I just need to make a mount to hold it once I chop the tail, I need to change the flasher unit, and I need to make a numberplate holder.
     
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  6. MickLC
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    MickLC Member

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    I still reckon you should do something about the annoying rattle from the engine before you worry about the bling :eek:



    :p
     
    #46
  7. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    Yeah, I should attach a tambourine to the side of the motor. The current dry clutch arrangement is not noisy enough for my liking.
     
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  8. Sprinter
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    Sprinter Member

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    Dry clutch jokes dont get old do they.
     
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  9. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    Nope, they never do. As is the same as people pointing out Pajero means wanker :p.

    (I can say that, I owned one... and called it the Pajerko)
     
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  10. dmac666
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    dmac666 Member

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    Maybe some oil on it would help....:p
     
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  11. MIZ
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    MIZ Member

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    You leave my painting skills out of this. i love that bike!

    ^^ This man ^^ he speaketh the truth. Short = Cool.
     
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  12. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    Don't worry honey, I'm prepping the angle grinder right now. Though I need to pick the bike up first :p.
     
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  13. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    My scanner is being crap, but I have picked the bike up.

    Brett did the following:
    Modify the airbox a few times to optimise the opening. Most of the time, people just cut 100% of the airbox and leave the edges to hold the filter down. This is not good if you plan on riding in the rain, I wanted a bit more protection. Also, the fully cut airbox isn't really required unless you make the engine fundamentally breathe better at the top end, through porting the head, adding bigger valves & adding massive cams. Since I don't have that, cutting more off than is needed isn't useful.

    After cutting the airbox and verifying once we were hitting the point where cutting off a bit more didn't add any more power or adjust the a:f ratio, he stopped. The end result of that was (max) 82.25 hp, 64.57 lb-ft of torque. The dyno day result (which was without airbox mod, cat converter and standard ECU rather than reflashed to DucatiPerformance specs), was (max) 81.87 hp, 60.03 ft-lbs. Max torque is about 5700 rpm for both runs, so I really gained in the midrange with the midpipe, airbox mod and ECU reflash.

    Time for a PCV and mapping.

    The a:f was all over the shop, so Brett did a heap of adjustments. End result, after a bit of fiddling: 88.1 hp, 69.25 ft-lbs torque.

    Crikey.

    It's a lovely bike to ride now. After the ECU reflash and the midpipe (but prior to airbox mod), it was a bit rich esp. at low throttle openings. This made it a bit doughy at EC, though flat out it was ok. This is pretty typical of DucatiPerformance mods.

    After the PCV, it's a different bike. It pulls like an absolute train from 3000 rpm, it's not stumbly even cold @ 2krpm (used to jerk and carry on, esp. before ECU reflash). The midrange, from 3750 to 6000 rpm, is smooth, linear, and pulls beautifully (as you'd expect with about 15% more midrange). It also lofts the front wheel in 2nd quite happily now, just on throttle. Lovely.

    Oh, and the ECU reflash was needed cause if you don't piss off the closed loop mapping, it won't hold the map with the PCV, even with the O2 sensor unplugged.

    Of course, pictures say a thousand words, so wait till you see the dyno sheets!

    Also, this adds a bit to the "Do I need a PCV" debate. The majority of the gains here aren't so much from the pipes but correcting the horrible factory fuelling (both the standard get-it-through-emissions-map midrange, and the rich-as-a-bastard-so-it-is-safe DucatiPerformance map). The rideability is unbelievably different, and I suspect that I gained top-end from the airbox and full exhaust system, but the midrange is mainly down to proper fuelling.
     
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  14. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    [​IMG]

    Bit of a difference.
    Blue is 2010 dyno day run: 25000 km, probably needing a service. Only mods that affected power were Staintune slipons and O2 sensor unplugged to richen the map. It was lean in the midrange, richening up at the top end.
    Green is after some more mods: 29000 km, just been serviced. Mods now were Staintune slipons, Spark stainless steel header, ECU reflashed to DucatiPerformance specs(1), and airbox top completely removed (now breaths through something about 80% of the size of A4 paper, as opposed to a small 20 x 80mm slot).
    Red is after the mods listed in green, plus PC V + advanced tuning. Fuelling is now optimised for each (horizontal and vertical) cylinders independantly.

    (1) DP ECU specs for this are:
    * Remove closed-loop mapping permanently so the ECU won't vary the mapping, which it will do at random even with the O2 sensor unplugged. ECU changing the mapping doesn't help for tuning it, so this is a necessary evil on these to tune them with a PCV.
    * Allow changes to the idle mixture trim of the ECU, which is locked out with the standard ECU.
    * Increase rev limiter from 8750 rpm to 9250 rpm. Note that max power is ~ 8000 rpm.
    * Richen up the fuelling, especially in the midrange. It also adds a bit much fuel up the top end...
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2011
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  15. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    I bought a tail chop kit cause I couldn't be arsed making my own mount for the plate etc.

    I still haven't fitted it. I am a lazy man.

    In great news, my Pit Bull reversible stand turned up. I have an awesome Sharp stand but it's very cumbersome to take to the track. Also, it doesn't hold the bike to remove the sprocket. The Pit Bull one is reversible.

    [​IMG]

    No-one seems to bring these awesome stands into Aus, but I took it upon myself to get one. Bought it in the same order with MIZ's Leo Vince full system for her 250R... but freight was a bit problematic (as the stand does not dismantle in any way). Ca-Cycleworks sorted out a cheap way to freight it, so that was ok. A few extra charges were incurred on the Aus end which were a bit of a pain and bumped the price up a fair way, but overall I'm happy.

    Now to do the tail chop, put small front indicators on, and finally fix the fork seal & the fact I can't start the bike in gear cause the clutch switch is busted (has been for ages). It wasn't a problem, but with the PCV fitted, it now has a bit of a tiny annoyance. Sometimes when the bike is cold and you've given it a wristful, then pull the clutch in, it'll die. This is pretty normal, the only thing that Ducati really did nicely with the mapping is the cold mapping and this is lost when you flash and PCV it. *Shrugs* :).
     
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  16. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    Many people often give me shit for the tail of the Monster.

    [​IMG]

    Commonly, this plastic is referred to as the 'beer tray' for obvious reasons.

    [​IMG]

    To remove this on a Monster, you don't just get to unbolt it. It's held on by the last 15 cm or so of the subframe, so it requires some actual metal surgery to the frame. It's not a mod you can easily go back from.

    I've toyed with doing it for ages, even designed my own numberplate/tail light holder, but could never get it right. Until I had it perfect, I wasn't going to bother cutting the frame.

    In the end, I just bought a Competition Werkes tail chop kit... for $80 including post it's hard to beat, means my dodgy metalwork doesn't need to see the light of day.

    [​IMG]
    Doing the chop requires taking the tail light off the beer tray. Undo the nuts...

    [​IMG]
    ... and remove the tail light. I've got an LED integrated tail light in there already - Monsters love to blow tail light globes thanks to the vibes - so this is going to be that bit easier.

    [​IMG]
    Next the number plate hanger comes off. Four nuts underneath the beer tray.

    [​IMG]
    Number plate hanger suitable for playing in the sand and that's about it.

    [​IMG]
    Wiring for indicators and number plate light needs to be disconnected.

    [​IMG]
    Just unplug those suckers :).

    [​IMG]
    If your Monster's tail light doesn't have any number plate lights built into it, unbolt the standard number plate light...

    [​IMG]
    ... cause it bolts straight up to the Competition Werkes kit.

    I might actually bolt mine up later - I think the bracket in black would make it look pretty factory.

    [​IMG]
    Nuts here hold my Ventura brackets, but the bolts they're attached to hold the tail chop kit to the bike.

    [​IMG]
    With everything off, time to measure twice and cut once. Mainly cause you have one shot at getting this right :).

    The amount to cut varies. Some people cut about 10 cm off (measured from the back of the bike, along the frame tubes). Competition Werkes suggest 15 to 17 cm. 17 cm is the 'brave cut' and puts you right at the edge of the weld of the key that undoes the seat latch.

    Since I'm brave, I went for the full-length cut from the get-go. Why bother doing it if you have a chance to fix it... this way you're forced to get it right the first time :D.

    [​IMG]
    One cut, almost done. I used a 32 tpi hacksaw blade for this - nice and clean. Takes a bit longer but you save a heap of cleaning up of the cut at the end.

    [​IMG]
    Look Ma, no tail! Bolts undone that hold the undertray to the back of the bike, cause the number plate bracket bolts in between the undertray and the frame.
     
    #56
  17. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    [​IMG]
    All installed. Took about 5 mins; my integrated tail light came with connectors to hook into the factory indicator leads etc. Easy!

    Eagle-eyed viewers will notice the red spring. Stiffer rear. Rear shock still Sachs, in both make and pronunciation, though.

    [​IMG]
    It helps to make sure nothing fouls on the tail light, including the rear seat cowl.

    [​IMG]
    Preeeeeeettttttyyyy.

    [​IMG]
    Another angle.

    [​IMG]
    How to make it look factory: chuck some plugs over the ends of the frame. Turns out I had some spare rubber plugs that were perfect to slip straight over the ends.

    [​IMG]
    Factory.

    [​IMG]
    Ventura rack still works with the tail chop done :).

    [​IMG]
    Useless piece of the back of the frame. There are ways to reinstall these - bit of thinner tubing down the middle and rivet to the subframe. So I'll keep it, it's nice to return things as close to stock as possible when it comes time to sell.

    So there we go, tail chop done. Time taken: 2 beers, mainly cause it took me 1 beer to find the damned Ventura rack.

    Coped just fine with a 2-up trip down the coast and back today, including running in on the dirt road to Pebbly Beach.
     
    #57
  18. RobotJebus
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    Lookin' good.
     
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  19. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    Major aside... but just been perving around about the Monster. This next paragraph is a bit out there.

    As far as I can tell, an S2R1k fits into Formula Xtreme Nakedbike - F3. Also, the last few rounds, the only other people in F3 have been Hyos. Yammy FZ6s fit into F2 along with 4v Monsters and the KTM Superduke; F1 would be the FZ1 etc etc. Main bikes running around in F3 these days seem to be Hyo 650s and CB400s.

    Interesting.

    EDIT: Though I'd be boned if anyone ran a Street Triple, as they also fall into F3.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2011
    #59
  20. metaltriumph
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    This really is a fantastic looking bike - kudos on all the mods aswell. Much better than stock but not over the top.
     
    #60