Redback Motorcycle Smash Repairs - 1/ 9 Collie St, Fyshwick. Ph: 6280 5433

LOW SIDED NINJA, BAR END ISSUE...

Discussion in 'Tech Help' started by danthemotorcycleman, Jan 7, 2016.

  1. danthemotorcycleman
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    danthemotorcycleman Member

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    Hi Guys & Girls,

    I unfortunately low sided my ninja going to work (last day 2015, unlucky!)
    before Christmas, and now back from spending time with everyone else from Canberra down south coast, I've had time to have another look at the damage. I think it should all be fairly straight forward to fix and replace but I'm at a loss with what to do with the bar end. I've attached a photo (try zoom in on the right bar end to see damage), will try upload a better one tonight, but the metal from the actual bar end, and the bolt that screws into it have scrapped together from sliding on pavement for 20 metres.

    Has anyone got any ideas of how to go about taking it off, short of taking an angle grinder to it?
    I'm worried if I take to it with a cordless impact driver it'll just strip the bolt.

    Thanks in advance for the help!

    Dan

    upload_2016-1-7_10-53-23.png
     

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  2. G-relk
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    G-relk Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    If you want to save the bar-end, just drill the end of the bolt out.

    Otherwise, destroy it and get a new set. They're not that dear to buy, even for the flush style ones that bolt on, instead of use the rubber bit that expands when you tighten the bolt.
     
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  3. danthemotorcycleman
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    danthemotorcycleman Member

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    Yeah might have to. I might have at it with an impact driver and see what happens. Drilling it out will be a last resort.
     
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  4. jaffa
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    jaffa Member

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    or just leave it. Is it going to cause you any issues ?
     
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  5. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    HEAT THE PISS OUT OF IT FIRST. Seriously, Kawasaki loctite the buggery out of their bar end screws.

    Cut slot into screw, use an impact screwdriver and a big-arsed hammer to start it off. Vise grips afterwards. New bar end with screw from CMC, job done.
     
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  6. danthemotorcycleman
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    danthemotorcycleman Member

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    yeah, unfortunately it's completely bent. Unrideable in current condition. Wish it was just cosmetic! So frustrating not being able to ride!!
     
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  7. danthemotorcycleman
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    danthemotorcycleman Member

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    Yeah? That's what I'm worried about, and all I keep reading on forums. I think I'll have a crack at doing that first, and if all else fails I'll just drill it out, possibly re-tap it. Cheers
     
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  8. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    It's periously tricky to drill it out straight especially as it's a long screw, as a warning.

    If you drill it out big and get the head off, then you can get the bar end off and use vise grips to grab it. That said, it needs heat even if you do that. Otherwise you'll just munt the available threads and the vise grips will twist on the threads. Heat + shock is how you kill loctite, hence an impact screwdriver is the best bet.

    Example from doing it on my ex's 250R:
    [​IMG]
    Required tools of the trade - big short handled hammer, impact screwdriver. You wanna hit the impact driver such that if you miss you'll bust your hand :D.

    [​IMG]
    Heating it using a cheap torch from Bunnings. You can actually buy (via fleabay) nice little ones that go onto camping butane bottles for cheaaaaaaaaap these days. A lighter won't do it :).

    [​IMG]
    Impact driver bit into the end. If you've got the end munted enough to not be able to get a proper philips driver into it, then you'll need to slot it and use a flat bit instead.

    [​IMG]
    Once you get it moving, it can be easier to use a big bar. Fortunately my impact driver (a cheap one from supercheap, nothing fancy) has an end that is 1/2" drive, so I can chuck it onto a big bar and wind it out that way.

    Good luck.
     
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  9. jaffa
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    jaffa Member

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    Ahhhh, didn't notice the bent handle-bar,. sorry...what supa said...but if at first you don't succeed, .....get a bigger hammer.

    Good luck.
     
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  10. danthemotorcycleman
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    Awesome documentation of the process!! Thanks! Good news is I have all of those tools except the blow torch, which will be resolved this afternoon. Bad news is I'm still concerned about the screw and bar end becoming one during the crash. It doesn't look like it'll break free easily, or at all. (Will remember to post a better photo tonight)

    Might have to get a mate over to hold the bike while I go to town bashing the crap out of it with an impact driver.
     
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  11. Binksy
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    Binksy Member

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    Assuming the bar and bar end are both fucked (which I can't tell if they are or not but sounds like they both are). Why not just angle grind the end off? Or even easier just hacksaw the bar just between the front brake and the throttle. Then you can pull everything off the clip on and install it on your new one? Sure it's nowhere near as cool or complicated as all this other stuff but if all your trying to do is free the controls from your clip on so you can install it on a new one it'd be a shit load easier....
     
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  12. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    Back in the day, suggesting something was DIY involving an angle grinder required 'owning a garage full of elaborate tools'. Plus that bar might be salvageable - big length of pipe over it, a small touch of heat at the bend bit, and get it nice and straight.
     
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  13. Binksy
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    Sounds like even more effort considering how cheap bars are plus having a suspect bar for the next stack. Might make the difference between riding the thing home and standing on the side of the road with half a clip on in your hand.

    It really comes down to what you enjoy doing. @supamodel gets great satisfaction out of working on bikes and figuring out how to do things which is great. But if your like me the easier approach with a better (in my mind) result for slightly more cash is the way I'd be going.

    Wow that threads still unlocked and not crazily modded, maybe I should make a contribution. Noticed the ZX10r was missing a chain guard the day before its first race meet so there was some DIY work that went into that one :p
     
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  14. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    Nah DIY is bad made, always buy premade.

    (Also, I make a habit of not modding anything I'm involved in, it's up to others as to if it should be locked and/or modded).

    Anyway, I am not a fan of using an angle grinder up there because there's a lot of stuff to spray with sparks, and with it bent down it's hard to get an angle grinder underneath.

    You can do it with a hacksaw but where you suggest doing it is going to be work hardened and therefore harder to cut than normal, and with the access in that space you're also only gonna use the front couple of inches of the blade - not a great way to hacksaw.

    It's about $120/side for 250R 'clipons' (which actually bolt down onto the top triple), and my experience is they re-bend very well.

    The bolt down part is important - if they are bent back even slightly, they are a right prick to get to the back screw on them on the throttle side. You need a really narrow 6mm long allen socket to get in there.

    Overall, I think I rebent Stace's about 5 times (though that's shared left and right, but they survived a couple of stacks), and it survived me binning it at 130 (we replaced the LHS one after that, had a big OEM parts order).

    So yeah, that's why I'd do it my way - not so much about the satisfaction of doing it a complicated way, but because it's probably actually the easiest way. That's based on my experience of undoing bar ends on a 250R and rebending the bars.

    Ultimately, I love grinding stuff way more than undoing things. Throwing sparks around is awesome fun.
     
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  15. Binksy
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    Binksy Member

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    Normally a few 300 OEM clip ons floating around gumtree with all the guys converting bikes for racing.
     
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  16. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    Yeah I just dunno if they're the same as the 250R. The 300 runs slightly bigger forks, and they have a recess in the clipon for the top of the forks (it's what sets the front fork height out of the triples). It's worth of investigating re: part numbers though.
     
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  17. John.R
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    What did the poor bloke do to deserve this :lol

    He just wanted help undoing a nut.

    If its stuffed just replace it, or mill up a Ti one, whatever gets you off.
     
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  18. danthemotorcycleman
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    danthemotorcycleman Member

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    Hahaha. Cheers guys. My mechanic cousin over in kiwi land just told me to drill it out (I've got a new bar so I can damage this one as much as I want) and strip everything off it.

    I apparently don't have a drill up to the job of doing this. So if anyone is free tonight and wants a few free beers, feel free to come over and give me a hand? I'm in Gordon.
    If not I'll just find one tomorrow :)
     
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  19. danthemotorcycleman
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  20. danthemotorcycleman
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