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So me Throttle Cable Snapped, Again!?!

Discussion in 'Tech Help' started by SmithPlatts, Mar 25, 2016.

  1. Jimmc
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    Jimmc Member

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    Lots of different ones, the Yamaha always looks good too.
     
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  2. SmithPlatts
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    SmithPlatts Member

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    Agreed. The Yamy Stryker takes my fancy, and the two (if they're still there) at the new dealer had the Scorpion aftermarket exhausts on which both look and sound better ...

    Also have a Boulevard M109 and Kawa Vulcan 1700 in my sights haha
     
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  3. SmithPlatts
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    SmithPlatts Member

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    As aforementioned, I'm gonna whore myself out to anything that feels comfy under me and test ride it
     
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  4. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    So if it's snapped 1cm from the end where it goes to the throttle tube (the little bit at the end, FYI, is legit called the nipple)... Well when assembled that bit is gonna rub on the end of the outer/conduit. (Probably - some bikes have more poking out and some have less. If not it could be where it goes into the adjuster).

    So that sounds like the why - probably a fundamental cable geometry issue. Something with a non hard wear sleeve to stop the cable inner rubbing on the metal outer end of the conduit is probably the go (they all need the little protective metal end cap on the conduit but for example most bikes I have use a bit of delrin between it and the end of the conduit to avoid metal on metal rubbage).

    Slack at the start of the throttle is normal. Needs about 2-4 mm of slack when measured at the throttle grip to avoid issues when turning bars one way or another (gets exciting when turning full lock right results in more revs due to cable being pulled due to lack of free play in throttle cable).

    All mechanical cables do indeed need lube. I use either a can of multi use lube, or if feeling flush with &$$, some triflow Teflon pushbike awesomeness. Cable lubers are not expensive to speed up the process (clamp luber onto cable conduit with a bit of cable inner poking out the other end, aerosol can of lube plus little straw to suit said aerosol can, pump cable full of lube till lube comes out the other end). Or you can spend 10-15 mins dripping a bit of lube in, actuating cable a bit to pump it through, and repeat till lube comes out the end.
     
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  5. SmithPlatts
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    SmithPlatts Member

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    She's pulled apart so I could nick to Joe's and get a replacement, so I took a few pics:

    Assembly; snapped cable
    [​IMG]

    Assembly; nipple and last of the cable
    [​IMG]

    Assembly; suspected rub/pressure point
    [​IMG]

    Cable
    [​IMG]

    From the feel of her, I was right that she has never seen a sniff of oil besides the handlers hands at the factory possibly ...

    Joe's was closed today, so I went to CMC instead and they had a universal throttle cable. It's tighter wound, smidgen thicker, and seems of better quality.

    Will see how I go getting it to fit.
     
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  6. SmithPlatts
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    So she's all back together again.

    The new cable is defiantly of better quality, and it does indeed seem that the throttle can pull beyond the limit of the cable; however I am not convinced that this was cause of the snap.

    I've lubed it all up, so will see how long it lasts.

    Thanks for everyone's input.
     
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  7. SmithPlatts
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    SmithPlatts Member

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    So, when I finished the throttle cabling I noticed that my brake/tail wasn't working any more; turns out she's melted!

    WP_20160331_003.jpg

    WP_20160331_004.jpg

    I replaced the bulb about two months ago, however Joe's (was there at the time) only had a slightly higher watt bulb (8/23 vs 5/21); could the extra 3 watt really have done this??? I know incandescent bulbs rise in temp about 2-5 degrees per watt; could Hyo be that cheap to have such a soft plastic that a few more degrees would melt it?

    I'm more inclined to think that there was a short ...

    Thankfully Joe's had a busted up HyoGV250 come in and had a full tail light assembly; grabbed the socket for $10.
     
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  8. CT90
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    CT90 Member

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    The terminals where the globe makes contact appear a bit rusty, poor connection equals more resistance from what I understand, resistance equals heat. The fuse box on my car melts when the headlight fuse contacts get oxidised (creates resistance I think), a quick sand, new fuse and away it goes.
     
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  9. Jimmc
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    Jimmc Member

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    Also check to see if the brake light is stuck on.
     
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  10. SmithPlatts
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    SmithPlatts Member

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    I've dealt with that in cars before; pain in the arse!

    In this case what you are seeing is burn, not rust ...
     
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  11. SmithPlatts
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    I check the brake/tail function regularly (don't want cagers up my arse) so I know it wasn't that. I did start second guessing myself and thought maybe I'd put the bulb in the wrong way and the tail was using the 23W wire with the brake using the 8W, but the pins are offset and only go in one way ...

    Unless the bulb was wired opposite for the offset; hrm

    In any case, it's bloody working now with a new socket and correct watt bulb, and I am 100% that the correct wattage is being used per function haha
     
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  12. supamodel
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    supamodel Secret Aaaaaagent Man Staff Member Moderator Supporter

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    The cheaper the bike, the more it'll be done in a commodity fashion. Pretty much guarantee that the light is wired up like any standard 3 pin globe :). No huge drama wattage wise either, certainly not enough to do that.

    I'd be looking at cruddy contacts as others have mentioned.
     
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  13. SmithPlatts
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    SmithPlatts Member

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    That's what I assumed, 3 pin globes are pretty standard and the watt increase just seems benign.

    As stated, the contacts look overheated/burnt-out; likely a nice short stuffed her up.
     
    #33