2008 KLR650

Given the chance In usually just make sure this is a clean line at the various joins along the inlet tract, ie carb to manifold, manifold to head, gaskets (if an), vacuum attachments ... I also like to have a bit of a polished finish and ensure it is smooth around the valve seats. If you are going to use the bike more or less for what it is intended then more extensive port work probably isn't much point. When it is all back together fuel mixture check too, especially if the exhaust isn't standard.
'Bigger' cams etc could be good but you need to know what you are after (more top end (and perhaps less durability) more bottom end torque???) and need to measure up new valve to piston clearance which isn't as simple as valve lift against TDC clearance as its a dynamic relationship. A lot more expense too.

Are the valve seats and valve guides OK?

 

I thought about different cams, but that's where it starts to get exxy....

I think I'll be happy just to get it running properly, ie clean out all the gunk and stop the oil consumption. A few extra ccs and lighter piston will make some difference. Gonna stick to stock sizes for the valves now: if it was an easy change I'd do it, but not for added difficulty, not much point.

As you say, I'm just riding it for what it is intended... not a race bike

I am getting stainless steel valves though - apparently more durable, still cheaper than OEM from CMC as well <shakes head>

Valve guides and seats seem ok - will get these checked when I get the head cleaned up.

 

Ensure a good valve to valve seat seal, you can get nifty 'blue' stuff or draw over the mating annulus of the valve with a pencil, insert the valve and rotate it pushing it against the seat then remove, you should see the pencil rubbed off onto the seat in an even matching annulus. Probably worth lapping with paste any way but if its done enough miles then the seats might need cutting too.
Also once you get the new valves check there is no rocking in the guides, shame to do all the work if the guides are worn.
If you're taking the head to some one for theh cleanup, I'd wait till you get the new valves and have it all done by them ... worth the extra wait to get it right.

 

absolutely

 

Plan at this stage is now:

1. patiently wait for parts to arrive.
2. order the parts I didn't know I needed, and wait for them to arrive.
3. take cylinder, piston, head and valves to engine rebuilders - get them to bore cylinder, clean head and reseat new valves. If it doesn't cost much more they can install the valves as well.
4. Reassemble the bits onto my bike.
5. GO
6. Bugger it, I'm ordering a braided brake line for the front as well, cos the back brake is more powerful than the front....! Getting a diy by yourself brake bleeding kit too to make it all easier....

 

The bike will purr with contentment

 

it had bloody better....!

It's fun and educational n'all, but I'd rather be riding it....

 

Piston kit arrived...

 

Engine rebuilding place in Mitchell are giving me attitude and the shits, and not filling me with confidence that they'll do the job properly, so I am wondering if anyone has used QIM in Queanbeyan in the recent - ish past for any cylinder work????

OR Queanbeyan Engine Service on Carrington St??? (Dick Tarlinton)????

 

Doing some smaller tasks on the KLR, including replacing a bunch of screws with allen bolts.

Ironically the second screw in the master cylinder is now stuffed and won't come out....I think that there may be a moral here....

 

Back in the slow lane....

Progress has slowly been made on the KLR rebuild.

Cylinder has been bored to new specs.

Head fully serviced with new valve seats. Looking very shiny. A big improvement over the crap that came out.

Nice change:

from this:




to this:




Got ripped off again late last week purchasing a new valve cover gasket locally... $56 <cough>.

Bought some fancy engine Engine Assembly lube from Brett.

Replaced old oil today with some basic mineral oil... what seems to be a phased out Motul 3000 in 15W50..... piston supplier said to use mineral oil for the first couple of thousand kms before using whichever oil you favour after.... specified no synthetic at first, but didn't say why.....

Funny to change the oil when there is no way to even start the half-engine, but it's one less job to do....

Also replaced the rather beaten up sump plug with a low=profile magnetic one, and put a nicely machined "security" oil cap on... Looks great. A small thing, but I do like a nice bit of metal Needs an allen key to take it off, but I needed pliers to get the old one off anyway.



"Fairly sure" that I have spent all the money that I need to, and that I have not overlooked anything. Hoping to get it all back together this week and get on it again.....

 

Very stock-standard run-in procedure for bikes and cars, right across the board. At least the first 1000km on a bike, ideally 6k km. First 10k in a car usually.

GTS, I can't be bothered explaining the theory.
(GTS = Google That Sh!t)