2008 KLR650

For the MEFO it is, full price was $190. They were clearing them out (probably cos it was too expensive )
Did you check out the tread pattern. So not a touring tyre.
The Michelin Anakee 2s I have on there at the moment, now that's a touring tyre. Ie semi slick.

 

If it's anything like the DR forks, the internal rod holes need to be drilled out to let the valve emulators do the work. The emulators also need to have their spring preload set.
However, the emulators shouldn't have any effect on the rebound damping, as per :http://www.procycle.us/info/questions/dr650/suspension.html#fork_issues_pt-ii
I wonder if they were confused between Emulators and Intiminators, and put 5W oil in instead of 10W... I also noticed that it is easy to get them in crooked.

 

Laurie mentioned something soothing about drilling, so I reckon you are on the right track

 

Bike still leaking oil.

The gear selector seal has been changed and that area is staying clean, however there is still oil spilling out. The mess seems to be centred on the counter sprocket so I'll replace that seal next. Seems to be the go to replace a gasket at the same time.



When I took off the cover, it looked like it had never been taken off before....



I figured that seeing as I was already dirty, I'd inspect the air filter.

Oh. My. God. I was so traumatised I forgot to take a pic
Well, I had no choice but to clean it cos there was no way that thing was going back on my bike. Surprised the bike could even move with the amount of crap on the filter.
Gave it a good clean with the nasty chemicals K&N sell, and wow is that what colour the filter is meant to be!!!
Looking good, dried and oiled and back on bike.

When the previous owner said he did all his own servicing, he must have meant he didn't. I've put 3000km on this bike, much in dirty conditions. I wonder how much I contributed to the clog. I'll take it apart in another 1000km and see what it looks like.

As I'm doing all this stuff, I'm learning just how easy it is to do work on the KLR. Changing the sprockets and chain looks easy. Only things I'm not too sure about are valve clearances and spark plugs. I hear plug on this can be a bit challenging... Hmmm

 

That looks cleaner than mine usually is. But then that chain looks pretty dusty/dry (from this angle) so that would explain it.

 

Yeah the last few hundred kilometres have been through very dry, dusty conditions.
I did 240km yesterday, majority on dirt, and the lube musta worn off. Been using a so-called biodegradable spray on chain lube. Pretty sure I did it last Sunday, but yeah it needs it again.

 

Thanks. It has been an interesting lesson in maintenance.
The KLR filter is nicely packed away in a plastic box, so reasonably well protected.
I'll check it again in 500km or so after next weekend's ride.

Although I still have little faith in the previous owner, given that there was almost no engine oil in it when I bought it, and the air filter cleaning kit was hardly used....

Oh, and congratulations on your "promotion", MR [MENTION=1453]supamodel[/MENTION]....

 

Makes interesting reading about airfilters.

http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/showthread.php?t=99633

If the inside is clean you'll be right.

 

Funny, one of the "selling" points of this KLR was the K&N air filter, but I have been researching this and there seems to be a view amongst serious dual sport forumers that the K&N is not the best choice for dual sport bikes that see dusty conditions.

The UNI filter seems to come highly recommended and it is Australian made....

Laurie Suspension Smith did my forks yesterday.... work done was to make them softer going down and firmer coming back up.... now that also sounds cool... best go find some dirt road after work to test it

Got new foot peg bolts yesterday seeing as I bent a couple. An upcoming mod is the footpeg mounts... on the KLR they stick out a lot and seem an obvious weak point. Gonna make them shorter... I'm tall enough to cope with an inch or two of extra stretch

Today my counter sprocket seal and bits arrived, so will get that done before the weekend. Hopefully that will stop the oil leak.

 

Is it possible the weak point is by design? (e.g. as a sacrificial way of preventing a munted frame)

 

Hmm, I wouldn't think so.... but if so, bollocks anyway... Kawasaki Australia want $200 for one of them, I mean really....

I've had two falls on this thing, one at really really low speed and it still bent the crap out of the mount. At the low speed, no way anything significant on the frame would break, surely.

 

Andy is right about the pegs.

I use a K&N pre filter on the 950. That's a one-off application for a specially designed kit.

But as a general rule, replacement K&N main filters are for boy-racers looking for HP bragging rights. No good for the life of your engine when things get dirty. Go with the stock filter.

 

Yer I agree Kawasaki likely just made it like that for fun. You've probably done a lot more R and D then them.

Buy some better pegs and mounts? You can get aftermarket ones for pretty good prices. On a bike that doesn't exactly handle like a razor sharp MX bike just leave em bent? Or heat em up and bend em back?

 

Yep heated and bent the first one. Will do with the new one as well. Only concern is that it'll weaken it....
Leaving them bent puts the sharp bit into the middle of my foot = ouch

It's got aftermarket pegs on already, but stock mounts.... as per anything on a motorbike there is a lot of discussion on this....

 

Yesterday replaced the counter sprocket seal, collar and its little o-ring... Glad that I didn't just get the seal as the collar pitted enough and ring flat enough, that you see easily why it leaked at pressure.

Two odd things... the seal had a lot of space behind the nut, the seal coming out was right up against nut, but it seemed more sensible to push the new one to the back of the collar. No oil pissing out yet, so that's a good start.

Second thing was we finished the job, and then found a small spring on the floor..... WTF????
NOTHING I'd read had mentioned a spring, and there seemed to be nowhere relevant that it could have come from.... There were other bikes around in bits, so suspect that it might have come from one of them....

 

That little spring is what we in the bis call a shoulder spring! A close relative of the shoulder bolt and shoulder nut

 

Re heat until it gets a good glow, that will relieve any stress concentrations. Quench to make it hard again, or let it air cool to remain soft and bendable.